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Are you looking for a better understanding of a unique detail or fashion trend? Is there a fabric that you are unfamiliar with? Use Ulla Popken's fashion guide for a better understanding of the terms involved in the fashions you are viewing.
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A-Line -
A style line which gradually flares out to a wider hemline, causing it to resemble the letter A. Items with a swing shape are also often called a-line. Our Paneled Skirt Dress has a perfect a-line shape.
Applique -
Cutting shapes from textile fabrics and attaching them to another fabric or garment in order to decorate the base material. Shop Ulla Popken's Embellished Tulip Sleeve Dress or Safari Denim Jacket.
Baby Doll -
This is a short nightgown or dress whose hem is below the hip and above the knee. Currently baby doll tops and dresses are a fashion trend.
Back Yoke -
A fitted or shaped seam at the top of a jacket or blouse, it is sewn as a separate piece into the construction of the garment.
Batik -
A hand technique for decorating textiles, in which parts of the fabric is covered with wax. The fabric is immersed in a dye bath and only the un-waxed area absorbs the dye. The wax is then removed. This can be repeated as often as the artisan wishes. Prints are sometimes printed to look like a batik print such as our Moody Blue Batik Tunic.
Bias Cut -
Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. This is used to create garments that follow the body's curves. Cutting on the bias also causes garments to drape into soft folds. Pant waistbands are sometimes cut on the bias as well to provide more stretch and ease. Here is an example of a bias cut garment.
Bohemian -
A huge trend in the market right now, it is the feeling of a free-spirited attitude toward fashion; with feminine details, including flounces, ties, ribbons, ruffles and embroidery. Denim, paisley and floral prints are also associated with this trend. See our 2-Piece Bohemian Print Dress.
Boiled Wool -
A wool fabric that has been processed to make it more dense and compact, see our Embroidered Boiled Wool Jacket.
Burnout -
Fabric with an alternating solid and sheer design, often in a floral or animal print. This fabric comes usually from China and is done in a silk or polyester blend. This is a fabric our customers love - our Floral Burnout Blouse is a perfect example.
Camisole/Cami -
A slim fit top that can be worn alone or as a layering piece. This type of item can range from 100% cotton to 100% silk. It is an essential wardrobe piece. An option is our Flip Front Tank , which can be worn as a v neck or a scoop neck.
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Cap Sleeve -
A small, short sleeve that sits on the shoulder about half the distance from the elbow, cap sleeves can range to be much shorter but for our plus size customers we just make this slightly shorter than our normal short sleeve.
Capri Pants -
Three-quarter length pants designed to hit about two inches below the knee. Capri pants are also great for the petite or tall customer since where they fall on the leg is not required to be in the same place on each person. This also makes them a pant that can go from season to season.
Cardigan Jacket -
A great item that can be in variety of fabrics and styles. This item can range from being a sweater knit to being woven. It can be collarless or have a collar. It can range in length for our full figured customers we try to have most of our jackets in longer lengths. The essential definition for cardigan jackets, are that they open at the front. Click here to view our collection of Jackets.
Cargo Style -
Pants or shorts with a patch pocket, zip pocket or bellows pocket with a flap. Cargo style pants make an excellent accent to any wardrobe and add a touch of fun. We have a large variety of options, but for 2009 we have have brought back our Stretch Poplin "Street-smart" Capris.
Cotton –
Soft, breathable, and comfortable. IIt is a natural fiber that comes directly from the cotton plant. This fabric is something we believe is essential for our plus size customer. We use only 100% cotton in our basic tees, basic bottoms and nightwear collection.
Chiffon -
A lightweight, plain-weave, sheer fabric made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. It is very strong, despite its delicate look.
Convertible Collar -
A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed which is sewn directly to the neckline. It can be made with buttons or a zipper. This type of collar can keep you warmer in the fall and cooler in the spring.
Cotton Poplin -
Medium weight durable textured fabric made with cotton, cotton blends or cotton/spandex blends. Our Stretch Poplin Separates are made in cotton poplin. Check out our Stretch Poplin Blazer or Stretch Poplin Pant.
Cowl Neck -
A loose neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which is draped loosely from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back. This type of collar works well for plus size women since the cowl neck is kept loose and is not tight around the neck.
Crepe -
A fabric characterized by a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. It comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness; it is soft to the touch and drapes elegantly for true figure flattery, whether woven from natural fibers or man-made synthetics. Our Moss Crepe Poet Blouse is a must have for the fall/winter season.
Crinkle -
A wrinkled or puckered effect in a fabric which may be obtained either by the construction or the finishing of the fabric. A crinkled texture increases the surface interest of the clothing, while insuring care is kept to a minimum, as the wrinkles are all a part of the charm. Our Crisp, Cool Crinkle Button Front Blouse is made in crinkle rayon.
Crochet -
The interlocking of loops from a single thread with a hooked needle, crocheting can be done either by hand or by machine. It has a special quality that seems to hint at intricate handiwork and produces a light and airy effect. We use it for trim on several of our items. Check out our Floral Patchwork Blouse or our Floral Print Crochet Trim Dress .
Cropped Pants -
Pants cut to a length about 2 inches below the knee. A crop pant is a wonderful all year round item. You can wear them with sandals in the summer and boots in the winter. These type of pants work well for petite or tall customers since the pant can fall in a variety of places and still look great. Our Tab Cuff Cargo Pants are a perfect basic addition to any closet.
Cutwork -
Designs cut out of a fabric and embroidered with a purl stitch. The cutwork detail can be done in a variety of fabrics.
Darts -
Darts are often put in garments in a variety of places. Some tops have bust darts which come from the armhole and provide shaping for the bust. Some pants have darts in the front or back to help the shape and curve of the garment. Darts sometimes are an essential piece to an excellent fitting garment.
Denim -
An all-American favorite whether in the form of your favorite jeans, skirts or jackets. When blended with spandex, it becomes stretch denim and the added spandex helps it retain its shape even longer. Denim is a flexible, forgiving fabric the more it is washed the softer it becomes. Our new Metallic Jeans fit like a dream on a variety of plus size shapes.
Dolman Sleeve -
The dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole it is cut as an extension of the bodice. This design is wonderful for the full figured woman that has a large upper arm. Try our Dolman Sleeve Tailored Shirt.
Double-Breasted -
A style of closure usually used on a jacket in which one edge of a garment overlaps another with a double row of buttons or other type of fasteners.
Drape -
The hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment.
Duster -
A longer length top stopping somewhere above the knee. Plus size women usually look beautiful in duster styles as the long line of a duster is very slenderizing. Our Tulip Cardigan Duster will match just about any pant or dress you own.
Embroidery -
The use of needlework to embellish or ornament a fabric. A wide variety of decorative hand or machine stitches in the same color or contrasting colors. Our Floral Embroidered Dress has beautiful embroidery details.
Empire Waist -
The location of the waistline just under the bust line - it can be seen on jackets, blouses, tees, or dresses. It is universally flattering for all figures because it visually adds length to the torso, for an instantly slimming effect. Our Floral Embroidered Dress has beautiful embroidery details.
Eyelet -
A circular, decorative edge with close zigzag stitching. Or a fabric punched with decorative holes, typically in an all-over design, and then similarly embroidered. Eyelet is a fabulous lightweight airy summer fabric.
Faux -
A French word meaning imitation or fake. Often a surplice neck line is sometimes done as a faux instead of a true surplice this helps the full figured customer not have to worry about the item gaping open or not fitting properly. Our best selling Exotic Surplice Blouse is a perfect example.
Fine Gauge -
A smooth sweater-knit garment that has little or no texture. The finer the gauge, the more densely the fibers are knit and the smoother the finish. Plus size women can stay cool but still look fashionable in this type of lightweight knit. A perfect example is Ulla's Floral Knit Cardigan.
Flat-Front Pants -
A pant in which the waistband in the front lays flat it does not have any gathers or pleats. A flat front pant provides less bulk than an all-elastic waist. Sometimes Ulla pants are given a partial flat front in which just part of the front waistband is flat.
Flood Pants -
Pants cut at, or just above, the ankle. A flood pant is an item that can be worn by women of varying heights. Our affordable Matte Jersey Slim Leg Pant is great example of a flood pant.
French Terry -
This fabric has a smooth front and a looped texture on the back, for a plush feel against your skin. Sometimes French Terry is used with the loop texture on the outside of the garment as part of a design detail.
Gathering -
A technique that creates fullness by tightening threads in a row of stitching. This is a popular trend for the spring and summer season and always a favorite for our customers. Our Gathered Scoop Tee has beautiful gathering details.
Gaucho -
Wide-legged pants or a divided skirt reaching mid-calf. This style of pant in a long version is called palazzo.
Gauze -
A thin, often transparent fabric. See our Ombre Crinkled Skirt.
Georgette -
Whether sheer or semi-sheer, this lightweight, plain weave fabric has a fine crepe surface and is characterized by its crisp feel, substantial body and outstanding durability.
Godet -
A triangular piece of fabric that is inserted into the lower edge of a skirt or sleeve in order to provide additional fullness.
Grommet -
A decoration usually in plastic or metal found as a detail on various garments. They can come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
Halter -
A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap-neck that is usually backless.
Hook-and-Eye Closure -
A 2-part fastening device consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.
Inseam -
The inside seam of a pant/short leg.
Jersey -
A type of fabric with a flat appearance, knit on a circular, single-knit machine; its principal distinction is that it is not a fabric with a distinct rib. Our signature viscose spandex jersey knit fabric is loved by all our customers. Check out our Lace Embellished Top or our Ruffle Sleeve Dress.
Jewel Neck -
A round neck that follows along the base of the neck.
Kangaroo Pocket -
A large single front pocket with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle.
Keyhole -
A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Kimono -
The true definition is a long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash as an outer garment by the Japanese. Our definition is a loose fitting garment with loose flared sleeves. A kimono is an item that flatters the plus size shape. We try to offer at least one kimono version each season, such as our best selling Burnout Velvet Kimono Set.
Lettuce Edge -
A thin ruffle at neckline, cuff or hem.
Linen -
Fabric that is woven from threads made from the flax plant. Linen can be blended with cotton which makes the fabric more resistant to wrinkles.
Mandarin Collar -
A band collar that stands straight at the edge of the neck, about 1 inch high, and opens front and center.
Matte Jersey -
A plain-stitched knit that's soft and fluid with a flat finish. Lighter than interlock and perfect for sportswear. Ulla's matte jersey collection is fabulous for travel as it is virtually wrinkle free. see our Matte Jersey Pintuck Dress or our Matte Jersey Swing Jacket.
Metallic -
A fabric made with metallic fiber, namely a fiber or yarn made of or coated with metal for the sake of embellishment. The glint of gold or silver is woven into the fabric, creating highlights throughout the garment or drawing attention just too special details. Our Metallic Separates glisten with details. See Ulla's newest metallic Animal Print Surplice Dress.
Microfiber -
The finest of all man-made fibers. Tightly woven to create an ultra light, silky fabric with an incredibly smooth and supple hand. Today's microfibers can be polyester, nylon, acrylic or a similar synthetic blend.
Mock neck -
A feature found in a variety of items. A modified and slightly looser fit without the extra fold, or roll, of fabric that characterizes a turtleneck in the classic sense.
Notch Neck -
A neckline having a small triangular cutout in the front center.
Notched Collar -
A two-piece collar that can be only worn open most commonly found on blazer style jackets. View our hereDamask Denim Jacket.
Nylon -
Any of a number of strong, elastic, synthetic polyamide materials that are fashioned into fabrics. Nylon's best qualities include its ability to retain color and shape and its tendency to resist wrinkles and dry quickly.
Ombre -
This is the shading of a single color from light to dark; or the gradual blending of several colors.
Organza -
Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric with a stiff feel. This fabric is often dressy and used for special occasion items.
Paisley -
Fabric is rich with swirling prints either woven in or screened. It is often in a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Persian and Indian origin, similar to half of the Yin yang symbol. Paisley type prints are always on the top of our customers to buy list. View our Paisley Bubble Sleeve Blouse.
Patchwork Pattern -
Woven fabric that combines together pieces of different prints and designs with stitching - sometimes quilted. This is often seen in romantic or country looks. Our Collage Jacket is a perfect patchwork design.
Pea Coat/Pea Jacket -
Heavy, warm hip-length woolen jacket with double-breasted front and a wide notched collar; originally worn by sailors "navy" blue. This style is now done in a variety of exciting colors and styles.
Peasant Top -
Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, lace details, loose sleeves, or free flowing material. Our Essential Cotton Peasant Blouse is a top seller for winter 2009.
Pintuck -
In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place. Similar to pleats, but tucks are smaller, generally being an inch or less in width.
Placket -
An opening that allows room for the garment to be put on. Closures such as buttons, snaps, hooks, zippers, or Velcro® are often incorporated into a placket.
Polo Dress -
A long or knee-length sheath designed as an extension of the classic, cotton knit polo shirt.
Polyester -
The original "miracle" fiber. A synthetic that comes in a wide range of weaves, often blended with other fibers. With polyester added to a garment, wrinkle resistance is built right in, shape and color retention are a given, as is durability.
Poncho -
A straight piece of fabric with an opening in the center for the head. Originally a Latin American garment in colorful woven fabrics used as outerwear, now used in sweaters, and blouses as well.
Princess Seams -
Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment, that create a figure-flattering, form-fitting shape. Princess seams are always flattering on full figured women as they provide a slenderizing appearance along the waist. Our Striated Denim Blazer has princess seams.
Rayon -
A lustrous, man-made fabric that drapes beautifully, resist wrinkles and is easy to care for. In addition, it takes and holds color exceptionally well. This fabric is often blended with other fibers. This fabric has excellent breathability. Ulla Popken uses this fabric as often as they can in their designs.
Ruffle -
A strip of pleated material used as a decoration or a trim at the edge of a garment that creates a rippled effect. Our Ruffled Poet Blouse has a mini ruffle along the placket.
Safari Style -
Safari Style Garments adapted from bush jackets worn by hunters on African safaris; including such features as bellows pockets, belting and epaulettes. Also included in this style are a wide variety of animal and tribal prints.
Satin -
Is a fabric with a high luster, smooth front and slightly textured back. It glides over curves for true figure flattery. It can be woven from fibers as luxurious as silk or as practical as rayon or polyester. Our Stretch Satin Floral Tunic Dress has an elegant shimmer.
Seersucker -
Light, woven fabric with a puckered effect, usually in a yarn-dyed pattern. Made from cotton, rayon and synthetic fibers in varying weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp.
Shawl Collar -
This is a one-piece collar that is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front of a garment. Our trendy Ombre Jacket has a shawl collar.
Sheath -
A straight narrow dress fitted to the body with vertical darts or a set-in waist.
Shelf Bra -
A bra that is built into a garment and offers very light support. It has a smooth, seamless appearance.
Shirring -
A gathering of material.
Shirt Dress -
A dress cut similar to a man's shirt with buttons down the front, shirtdresses can be seen in fabrics from poplin to satin.
Silk -
A fine, strong, continuous filament produced by the silkworm when constructing its cocoon. Silk is noted for both its strength and resiliency, along with its elegant appeal.
Skort -
This is a pair of shorts that have a front and sometimes a back covering to resemble a skirt.
Smocked -
An embroidered thread sewn on top gathered folds of fabric. Most frequently smocking is used on the bodice to enhance the fit by visually whittling the waist. Our Long Smock Coat is smocked loosely to flow over curves.
Spandex -
A man-made fiber that adds stretch. Always blended with other fibers, as a little goes a long way, spandex improves fit and flexibility, while enhancing durability and comfort.
Split Neck -
A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "V".
Square Neck -
An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a square.
Straight Legs -
Pant legs that are cut an equal width from the waist to ankles.
Tapered -
A descriptive term for a shape or cut that becomes progressively narrower or thinner at one end. Tapered pants, for example, draw the eye away from the waistline and down to the narrower part of the leg and the ankle, for a slimming effect.
Terry -
An absorbent fabric with loops forming the plush pile; also called terry cloth.
Topstitching -
Machine stitching showing on the right side of a garment for decorative effect.
Trapeze -
A tank-style top that leads to a fuller sweep of fabric below. Whether in the form of a tunic top or a dress, this simple shape balances most women's proportions beautifully.
Tunic -
A simple slip-on top that usually falls below the hips or longer. Most tunics are at least 32 inches in length. Our Giraffe Print Tunic is a must have fall item.
Tweed -
A coarse wool or synthetic fabric used chiefly for casual suits and coats.
Twill -
Durable and tightly woven on the diagonal, the twill weave is most often seen in khakis, chinos and denim. Twill is typically made of cotton, but with the addition of spandex, it becomes stretch twill, a fabric that gently hugs the curves while maintaining its shape through many a washes.
Twin set -
A cardigan sweater over a matching sleeveless or short-sleeve sweater.
Two-Way Stretch -
The quality of woven or knit garments made with spandex that enables them to stretch vertically and horizontally.
Velvet -
A silky densely piled fabric with a plain back. This fabric is cut and brushed to form a soft, luxurious pile. A silk velvet blend is soft and supple.
Voile -
Sheer or semi-sheer spun cloth that is lightweight and soft, though with a crisp hand. It is typically made from cotton, rayon or acetate. A natural fabric used for many summer styles.
Viscose -
One popular type of rayon. In addition to a supple feel and luster characteristic of rayon fabrics in general, viscose is soft yet strong, resists wrinkles and drapes well. Many of our tunics and blouse are made in 100% viscose rayon. This fabric is lightweight, airy and drapes beautifully. Click here to view some examples.
Waffle Stitch -
This is a textured knit. Knit tops made using the waffle weave are a favorite for layering because they add textural interest and warmth without bulk.
Welt -
A pocket that has a folded strip of material sewn into the front portion of the pocket. The welt extends upward from the seam.
Wide Leg -
A flattering fit for pants or jeans. Cut extra full all through the leg, with a wider leg opening, so they're comfortable not confining. Our Denim Wide Leg Pants are perfect for adding balance to your proportions.
Wrap/Surplice -
A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline. An item that has a wrap design can close in a variety of ways from a small ribbon on the inside to a small button. This type of item allows you to adjust the garment to your body shape.
Wrinkle Resistant -
That property of a fabric that enables it to resist the formation of wrinkles through their weave or their chemical make-up. Certainly a desirable attribute, as it means easier care and a more polished look with no fuss.
Yarn-Dyed -
Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment. Yarn-dyed garments hold their color after repeated cleaning.
Yoke -
The fitted top of a garment across the shoulders in front or back, usually a separate piece seamed across the front and back; sometimes lined.
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